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What Paperwork You Need to Trade In a Car or Return a Ford Lease in Texas

Most trade-in appointments that go sideways don't go sideways over money. They go sideways over a missing title, a payoff quote nobody pulled, or a co-signer who is at work in Round Rock and can't get to Hutto until Saturday. The number on the appraisal is the fun part. Paperwork is the part that decides whether you drive home in something new today or come back Thursday.

So here's the plain list. What to bring when you trade in, what's different when you're handing back a leased Ford, and the Texas-specific details that trip people up.

The short answer

To trade in a vehicle in Texas, bring your Texas title (or your lienholder's name and account number if there's still a loan), your driver's license, proof of current insurance, your registration, all keys and remotes, and any service records or accessories that came with the car. If you're returning a lease, bring your lease agreement or account number, your completed vehicle inspection report if your lessor sent an inspector, and everything that came in the vehicle originally, including the cargo cover and the second key.

That's the version you can screenshot. Now the details that actually matter.

Trading in a vehicle you own outright

What to bringWhy it matters
Texas Certificate of TitleNo title, no transfer. If it's in a safe deposit box in Taylor, get it before your appointment.
Driver's license for every person on the titleBoth names on the title means both signatures. No exceptions.
Current registrationConfirms the VIN, the plate and that the vehicle is registered in your name.
Proof of insuranceTexas requires it to drive off in your next vehicle.
Both keys, all fobs, the key card if it has oneA missing second key is a real deduction on almost every appraisal.
Owner's manual, cargo cover, floor mats, factory wheelsIf you swapped wheels or pulled the third row out, bring the originals.
Service recordsA folder of oil change receipts is the cheapest way to defend your car's value.

One more thing on titles. If your name changed after a marriage or divorce, or if the title still lists a lienholder that was paid off years ago, sort that out first. A released lien that was never recorded is the single most common delay we see, and it's fixable, just not in twenty minutes.

If the owner has passed away

Estate situations need extra documents, usually a death certificate and either letters testamentary or a Texas heirship affidavit. Call ahead. We'd rather tell you exactly what to gather than have you make the drive twice.

Trading in a vehicle you still owe money on

This is the most common scenario on the lot, and it's completely normal. Your lender holds the title, often electronically, which means there's no paper title in your glovebox and that's fine.

What we need from you:

  • Lender name and account number. The statement in your banking app is enough.
  • A 10-day payoff quote. Call your lender or pull it from your online account. It will be slightly higher than your balance because of daily interest, and it should include the per diem.
  • A phone number for the lender's payoff department. Sometimes they'll only release figures to you, not to us.
  • Your last payment date. If a payment is due in the next few days, ask us whether to make it or hold it.

If your payoff is higher than your trade value, that's negative equity, and it doesn't stop a deal. It just changes the math. Run a few scenarios on our Payment Calculator before you come in so the numbers don't surprise you, and if you want the approval side handled in advance, the Finance Application takes a few minutes from your phone.

Returning a leased Ford

Lease returns are a different animal. You're not selling the vehicle, you're giving it back, and the lessor has a defined list of what it expects to receive. Missing items get billed.

Bring all of this:

  • Your lease agreement or account number
  • Every key and fob that came with the vehicle
  • The cargo cover, load floor, tonneau, third-row seat, jack and lug wrench, and anything else that shipped with it
  • The charge cord, if you leased a Mach-E or a plug-in hybrid
  • Your pre-inspection report, if your lessor arranged an inspection before turn-in
  • Maintenance receipts, which help if there's a question about condition

Before you hand over the keys, take ten minutes and do your own walkaround in daylight. Look at the tires, because tread depth is one of the items lease inspectors actually measure. Look at the windshield, because Central Texas gravel and the construction zones along US 79 and SH 130 are hard on glass. Check the dashboard and the top of the rear seat for heat cracking, which our summers are very good at producing. Anything you find now, you can price out and decide whether to fix. Anything found at turn-in becomes somebody else's estimate.

Also clear out the digital side. Remove the vehicle from your FordPass account, factory reset the SYNC system so your contacts and home address go with you, and unpair your phone. Pull the toll tag off the windshield, because a TxTag stuck on a car you no longer own is a slow-motion headache on SH 130 and the 45 toll. Then check the garage door opener, the sunglasses bin, the seat-back pockets and under the spare tire cover.

Texas details people ask about

Do I keep my license plates when I trade in?

In Texas, plates generally belong to you, not the vehicle, and they can often be moved to your next vehicle. Don't unbolt anything before you talk to us. We'll tell you whether to transfer them or turn them in, and we handle the title and registration work with the county either way.

Do I need to file a Vehicle Transfer Notification?

That form, VTR-346, is for private sales, where it protects you from tickets and tolls racked up by the buyer before they title the car. When you trade in to a licensed dealer, the transfer is documented on the dealer paperwork, so it isn't part of your to-do list.

Does Texas ending the safety inspection change anything?

Not for your trade-in paperwork. Your vehicle's condition still affects its value, and emissions requirements still apply in certain counties, but there's no inspection certificate to chase down before you trade.

Can I trade in a car that isn't paid off and still owe on it?

Yes. We pay your lender directly from the deal and roll any remaining difference into your next financing, or you cover it out of pocket. Both are normal.

How long does a trade-in take at the dealership?

An appraisal itself is quick. What stretches an appointment is waiting on a payoff quote, a second signer, or a title that's an hour away. Bring the documents and the whole visit moves at a very different pace.

Do the easy prep work first

Start with a number. Our Value Your Trade tool gives you a real starting point based on your VIN, mileage and condition, and it takes less time than finding your registration. From there, decide what you actually want next. If you've been going back and forth on ownership versus a shorter term with a mileage cap, our Buying vs. Leasing breakdown lays out the tradeoffs honestly, including how commute miles on I-35 and 79 affect which one makes sense.

Then get the money side lined up. The Finance Center is where you'll find lender options, credit questions and the paperwork you'll sign, and getting pre-approved before you shop means the conversation on the lot is about the vehicle, not the terms.

Bring the folder, not the guesswork

Drivers come to us from Hutto, Taylor, Pflugerville, Coupland and Georgetown, and the ones who leave happiest are almost always the ones who showed up with a title, a payoff quote and both keys. That's it. That's the whole secret.

Ready to find out what your vehicle is worth or schedule a lease return? Get your appraisal started online, then come see us at Covert Ford Hutto. We'll walk your vehicle with you, explain every line on the appraisal, and tell you honestly what your options are, whether your next Ford is an F-150, a Maverick, an Explorer or nothing at all right now.

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2026 Ford Super Duty Towing: How to Read F-250, F-350 and F-450 Ratings

2026 Ford Super Duty Towing: How to Read F-250, F-350 and F-450 Ratings A properly equipped 2026 Ford Super Duty tows up to 40,000 pounds with a gooseneck hitch, and maximum payload reaches roughly 8,000 pounds. No single truck hits both. The rating changes with model, engine, cab, bed length, rear-wheel configuration, axle ratio and hitch type, so the door jamb sticker is the only number that governs your truck. See the trucks currently on the ground and check build sheets against your trailer. Key Takeaways Advertised maximums describe one specific configuration, usually a regular cab long bed that almost nobody orders. Gooseneck, fifth-wheel and conventional ratings are three different numbers on the same truck. Gas engines generally deliver the highest payload figures. Diesels deliver the highest tow ratings. Payload, not towing, is what most buyers actually run out of first, because tongue weight comes out of payload. Williamson County runs on trucks that work. Cattle trailers move on FM roads around Coupland and Thrall, contractors feeding the Samsung construction corridor in Taylor haul equipment along US 79, and gooseneck flatbeds are a normal sight on SH 130. The Super Duty is built for all of it, but buying on the headline number is how people end up with the wrong truck. What Are the Actual 2026 Super Duty Maximums? Ford rates a properly equipped 2026 Super Duty at up to 40,000 pounds with a gooseneck hitch. That figure comes from an F-450 with the 6.7L High-Output Power Stroke diesel and dual rear wheels. Conventional towing tops out around 30,000 pounds, and fifth-wheel ratings sit between the two. Payload is a separate contest. Maximum payload reaches roughly 8,000 pounds, from an F-350 dual-rear-wheel truck with a gas V8, not a diesel. A Power Stroke weighs several hundred pounds more than a gas V8, and every pound of engine is a pound you cannot put in the bed. The lineup runs four engines: a 6.8L gas V8, a 7.3L gas V8, the 6.7L Power Stroke turbo diesel and the 6.7L High-Output Power Stroke, all paired with a 10-speed TorqShift automatic. Why Are Gooseneck and Fifth-Wheel Numbers Different? Because the hitch geometry and the equipment are different. A gooseneck ball mounts in the bed directly over or slightly ahead of the rear axle, transferring trailer weight into the truck's strongest structure. A fifth-wheel plate does something similar but sits higher and weighs more, reducing the available rating on the same chassis. Conventional towing hangs the trailer off a receiver behind the rear axle, which is why those ratings are lowest. Roughly 10 to 15 percent of a conventional trailer's weight lands on the hitch and counts against payload, along with every passenger, tool and fuel gallon in the truck. Two trucks with the same tow rating can therefore behave completely differently once loaded, which is why the door jamb sticker listing gross vehicle weight rating and payload is the document that matters, not the brochure. Which Super Duty Should You Actually Buy? Start with the heaviest thing you tow, not the heaviest thing you might someday tow. Most Central Texas buyers who think they need an F-450 need an F-350. The F-250 handles large fifth-wheels, livestock trailers and typical contractor loads, drives like a truck you would take to town, and is where most heavy-duty buyers should start. With the High-Output diesel it reaches up to about 23,000 pounds on a gooseneck or fifth-wheel, and around 22,000 pounds conventionally. The F-350 single rear wheel gains meaningful capability without the width and turning radius of a dually. In dual-rear-wheel form it adds stability under heavy fifth-wheel and gooseneck loads and carries the highest payload figures in the lineup. The F-450 exists for the top of the chart, with dual rear wheels and diesel power standard in consumer configurations. If you pull a large equipment trailer or a very large RV regularly, it is the right truck. If you pull a 14,000-pound gooseneck twice a month, it is more truck than the job requires. Model Approximate max gooseneck Rear wheels Typical buyer F-250 Up to about 23,000 lbs Single only Livestock trailers, mid-size RVs, most contractor loads F-350 single rear wheel Higher than F-250, below dually Single More capability, still manageable width F-350 dual rear wheel Up to about 38,000 lbs Dual Heavy gooseneck and highest payload F-450 Up to 40,000 lbs Dual, standard Large equipment trailers and big RVs Bring your trailer's weight and tongue weight to the lot. Start with the F-250 research page and we will match a real build sheet to your real numbers. What This Means for Hutto Drivers The most common local mistake is buying tow capacity and running out of payload. A crew cab diesel with four passengers, a full fuel tank, a toolbox and a gooseneck pin weight of 3,000 pounds can be at its gross vehicle weight rating while the trailer is nowhere near the truck's advertised tow number. That truck is legally overloaded even though the marketing said 30,000 pounds. Around Williamson County the dense loads catch people: a tandem-axle trailer of blackland dirt, a skid steer, a load of pipe headed to a job site off US 79. Those hit payload limits fast. Livestock trailers running to Granger or out toward Milam County spread weight more forgivingly but add a lot of pin weight when full. Texas also has trailer licensing and equipment requirements tied to gross weight thresholds. Those rules are set by the state, not by Ford, and change independently of model years. Confirm your specific combination with the Texas Department of Public Safety or the Texas Department of Motor Vehicles rather than a spec sheet, especially if you tow for a business. 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Last updated: 2026-09-07 Author: Covert Ford Hutto New Ford Inventory | Pre-Owned Inventory | Ford Service

Your Ford Lease Is Ending: A 90-Day Plan for Williamson County Drivers

Your Ford Lease Is Ending: A 90-Day Plan for Williamson County Drivers A Ford lease return goes best when you start 90 days out. You have three options at lease end: return the vehicle, buy it out, or trade the equity into something else. Knowing your mileage position and wear-and-tear exposure before the final month keeps the decision yours instead of the calendar's. Get a number on your leased vehicle and find out whether you have equity in it. Key Takeaways Ninety days is enough time to fix cheap wear items and shop replacements without pressure. Thirty days is not. A lease can carry positive equity if the vehicle is worth more than the residual value written into your contract. Excess mileage and wear charges are contract terms, not surprises, and both are usually visible in advance. Returning the vehicle is one of three options, and it is not automatically the cheapest. Lease returns catch people off guard for an unglamorous reason: the end date sits on a document nobody has opened in three years. Then the reminder arrives, and suddenly you have four weeks to inspect the vehicle, decide whether to buy it, and find a replacement. Drivers around Hutto and Round Rock run high annual mileage because of the commute, which makes mileage the question that decides everything else. Ninety Days Out: Where Do You Actually Stand? Two numbers determine your options. The first is mileage position. Take your odometer reading, subtract what you started with, and compare that against your annual allowance multiplied by how far into the term you are. If you are running ahead, multiply the projected overage by your contract's per-mile charge. That is your baseline cost of returning the vehicle. The second is what the vehicle is worth today versus the residual value in your contract, set years ago on a forecast. If used values for your model held up better than that forecast, the difference is equity, and it belongs in your next transaction rather than to anyone else. If values came in lower, returning the vehicle is likely the right call and the contract protects you. Sixty Days Out: What Should You Fix Before Turn-In? Lease agreements distinguish normal wear from excess wear. Normal wear is the paint and interior aging you would expect. Excess wear is damage, and it is billable. Fix the cheap items and leave the expensive ones alone. Worth handling yourself: windshield chips, often cheaply repairable and otherwise likely to spread in a Texas summer. Burned-out bulbs. A missing second key, which is expensive and always comes off the number. Missing floor mats, cargo covers or headrests. A professional interior detail, which costs far less than what a soiled interior gets assessed at. Tires are worth checking early. Most lease contracts specify a minimum remaining tread depth, and a set that measures fine at 90 days can be under the threshold by turn-in if you are still driving I-35 daily. Check what your vehicle takes while you still have time to shop rather than replacing under deadline. Not worth handling: body panel repairs, repainting, or anything requiring a shop. Dealers get that work done at wholesale cost. You would pay retail and rarely recover it. Thirty Days Out: Which of the Three Options Fits? Return the vehicle if mileage is at or under allowance, there is no equity, and you want to walk clean. Settle any charges, hand over both keys, done. Buy it out if the vehicle is worth more than the residual, or if you are significantly over on mileage. A buyout eliminates the excess mileage charge entirely, because there is no turn-in inspection on a vehicle you now own. That math surprises people, and for high-mileage Central Texas commuters it is often the cheapest outcome. Trade the equity if the vehicle is worth more than the residual and you want something different. This is the option most drivers do not realize exists. The equity becomes a down payment on the next vehicle, whether that is a new Ford or something from our used inventory. Option Best when Mileage charges Wear charges Return it At or under allowance, no equity Apply if over Apply if excess Buy it out Well over mileage, or vehicle worth more than residual Do not apply Do not apply Trade the equity Vehicle worth more than residual and you want something else Typically resolved in the deal Typically resolved in the deal Not sure which column you are in? Run the numbers on a payment calculator and bring what you get to the conversation. What This Means for Hutto Drivers Mileage is the local variable. A Hutto to downtown Austin round trip on SH 130 and I-35 runs a substantial daily figure, and a driver doing that four days a week can burn through a 12,000-mile annual allowance well before the year is out. Add weekend runs to Georgetown or a trailer trip to Granger Lake and the gap widens. If you leased with a low allowance to hold the payment down, check your position now. The buyout deserves a serious look for exactly that reason. A commuter 15,000 miles over allowance is facing a real number at turn-in, and buying the vehicle makes it vanish. The vehicle is known to you, its service history is documented, and there is no reconditioning surprise waiting. Timing also matters in this market. Trucks and SUVs hold value strongly in Central Texas year round, so a leased F-150 or Explorer is more likely to carry equity than a comparable sedan. That is worth confirming rather than assuming, and it takes one appraisal. If you are weighing whether to lease again or finance next time, the leasing overview walks through the trade-offs. Quick Answers for Hutto Drivers Can I have equity in a leased vehicle? Yes. Your contract sets a residual value years in advance. If the vehicle's current market value is higher than that residual, the difference is equity. You can capture it by buying the vehicle out and reselling, or more simply by trading it in on your next purchase. If market value is below residual, returning the vehicle is usually better. What happens if I go over my lease mileage? Your contract specifies a per-mile charge for miles beyond the allowance, assessed at turn-in. The charge is not negotiable at that point; it is a contract term. You can avoid it entirely by buying the vehicle out, since there is no turn-in inspection on a vehicle you purchase. Knowing your projected overage early makes that choice available. What counts as excess wear on a lease return? Excess wear is damage beyond normal aging: cracked glass, dents beyond a specified size, torn upholstery, tires below the contracted minimum tread depth, and missing equipment such as a second key, floor mats or headrests. Normal fading, minor scuffs and typical interior wear are not charged. Your contract defines the thresholds, so read that section. Should I fix damage before returning a leased vehicle? Fix the cheap things: windshield chips, bulbs, a missing key, missing floor mats and a thorough interior cleaning. Skip body work and paint. Dealers have that work done at wholesale cost, so paying retail to fix a panel almost never recovers what you spend. Tires are the judgment call, depending on how far below the threshold you are. How early should I start the lease return process? Ninety days before your end date. That gives you time to check mileage and wear, get an appraisal, repair inexpensive items, and shop a replacement without a deadline forcing the choice. Waiting until the final month usually means accepting whatever is on the lot and whatever charges the inspection produces. Do I have to return my lease to the dealership I leased from? Not necessarily. Ford leases can generally be returned to a Ford dealer, though grounding policies vary, so call ahead and the store can prepare the paperwork. If you are considering a replacement at the same time, handling both at one store keeps the equity, the payoff and the new purchase in a single conversation. Start Your Lease-End Plan Today Bring us your lease agreement, your current odometer reading and both sets of keys, and we can tell you in one visit where you stand on mileage, whether the vehicle carries equity, and which of the three options costs you least. There is no obligation. Call our sales team at 737-327-3018 or start the credit application online if you already know you want to replace the vehicle. If service items came up during your inspection, our service department can handle them before turn-in. Last updated: 2026-08-24 Author: Covert Ford Hutto New Ford Inventory | Pre-Owned Inventory | Ford Service

Ford BlueCruise on I-35 and SH 130: Which Fords Have It and What It Actually Does

Ford BlueCruise on I-35 and SH 130: Which Fords Have It and What It Actually Does Ford BlueCruise is a hands-free highway driving system that works on prequalified divided highways Ford calls Blue Zones, covering more than 130,000 miles across North America. It is currently available on the Mustang Mach-E, F-150, F-150 Lightning, Expedition and Explorer, and it requires an active subscription to use. Browse new Ford models and check which ones are equipped. Key Takeaways BlueCruise is a Level 2 driver assistance system, not self-driving, and an infrared camera confirms your eyes stay on the road. Blue Zones cover more than 130,000 miles of divided highway, which Ford describes as roughly 97 percent of controlled-access highways in the United States and Canada. BlueCruise 1.4 changes lanes when you tap the turn signal. Version 1.5 and higher can initiate the lane change on its own. The hardware has to be built into the vehicle at the factory, so it cannot be added later. Anyone who runs US 79 to I-35 in the morning and back through the SH 130 toll lanes in the evening knows the specific kind of tired that comes from ninety minutes of holding a lane. It is not dramatic. It accumulates. BlueCruise is Ford's answer to that particular problem, and it is worth understanding precisely because it is easy to oversell and easy to dismiss. Here is what the system does, where it works, and which Fords currently offer it. What Does BlueCruise Actually Do? BlueCruise builds on adaptive cruise control and adds hands-free lane centering. On a mapped highway section, the system steers, accelerates and brakes while keeping the vehicle centered in its lane. You can take your hands off the wheel. You cannot take your eyes off the road. That distinction is enforced by hardware. A driver-facing infrared camera tracks your eye position and head orientation. Look away too long and the system escalates through warnings before handing control back. Ford's instrument cluster turns blue when hands-free operation is active, which is a deliberately obvious cue so there is never ambiguity about what the car is doing. The system is Level 2 on the standard automation scale. You remain the driver, legally and practically, and you are expected to be able to resume control immediately. Where Do Blue Zones Actually Work? Blue Zones are prequalified sections of divided, controlled-access highway that Ford has mapped and approved based on lane marking quality, medians and limited access points. Ford currently puts that network at more than 130,000 miles of North American roads and describes it as covering roughly 97 percent of controlled-access highways in the United States and Canada. What that excludes is as important as what it includes. Intersections, roundabouts, city streets and construction zones are not Blue Zones. A stretch of highway under active reconstruction can drop out of the network temporarily, which in the Austin metro is not a hypothetical. When you enter a Blue Zone, the cluster tells you the system is available. Ford publishes an interactive map, and checking your specific commute against it is worth five minutes before you buy on the assumption that a given route qualifies. Which Fords Have BlueCruise Right Now? Ford lists BlueCruise availability on the Mustang Mach-E, F-150, F-150 Lightning, Expedition and Explorer. Availability varies by trim, configuration and equipment package within each of those models, so two F-150s on the same lot can differ. The version matters too. The 2026 F-150 ships with BlueCruise 1.4 on XLT, Lariat, King Ranch, Platinum and Tremor trims. That version uses Lane Change Assist, where you tap the turn signal and the system executes the move. BlueCruise 1.5 and higher adds Automatic Lane Change, which can move you around slower traffic without any input, and Ford currently lists that capability on the 2026 Explorer and on 2025 and 2026 Mustang Mach-E models. Software updates arrive over the air on eligible vehicles, so a truck can improve after you buy it, but the underlying hardware cannot be retrofitted. Capability Adaptive cruise with stop and go BlueCruise 1.4 BlueCruise 1.5 and higher Hands off the wheel No Yes, in Blue Zones Yes, in Blue Zones Lane changes Driver steers Tap the turn signal System can initiate Driver monitoring camera Not required Required and active Required and active Works on surface streets Yes No No Subscription needed No Yes Yes The difference is easier to feel than to read. Ask us to set up a highway drive and try it on a real commute rather than a parking lot loop. What This Means for Hutto Drivers Central Texas is close to an ideal use case. The commute out of Hutto is not technically difficult driving. It is long, straight, heavily trafficked and monotonous, which is exactly the profile BlueCruise was designed for. SH 130 in particular gives you sustained high-speed running with wide lanes and clear markings, and I-35 through Round Rock and Georgetown gives you the stop-and-go density where adaptive cruise with stop and go does most of the work. Two local caveats are worth naming. First, the Austin metro has been under near-continuous highway construction for years, and construction zones are excluded from hands-free operation. Expect the system to hand back control in work areas, which is the correct behavior and not a defect. Second, US 79 through Hutto and out toward Taylor is not a controlled-access divided highway for much of its length, so the portion of your drive closest to home is likely the portion where the system will not engage. The honest pitch is that BlueCruise reduces fatigue on the parts of the drive that cause it. If most of your weekly mileage is on FM roads around Coupland and Thrall, it will not change much about your week. If you are running to a Dell campus in Round Rock or downtown Austin four days a week, it changes a meaningful share of that time. Quick Answers for Hutto Drivers Is Ford BlueCruise self-driving? No. BlueCruise is a Level 2 driver assistance system. It steers, accelerates and brakes on mapped highways while you remain the driver and stay responsible for the vehicle. A driver-facing infrared camera confirms you are watching the road and will hand control back if you look away. You should always be ready to take over immediately. Which Ford models offer BlueCruise? Ford currently lists BlueCruise availability on the Mustang Mach-E, F-150, F-150 Lightning, Expedition and Explorer. Availability varies by trim, model year and equipment within each of those, so two vehicles of the same model can differ. Confirm the specific vehicle's status in your Ford Account or the Ford app before purchase. Does BlueCruise work on I-35 and SH 130? Ford describes the Blue Zone network as covering roughly 97 percent of controlled-access highways in the United States and Canada, which includes major interstate and toll corridors. Ford publishes an interactive Blue Zone map, and checking your specific route on it is the reliable way to confirm coverage, since construction can temporarily remove a section. Can BlueCruise be added to a Ford that did not come with it? No. BlueCruise requires cameras, radar and a driver-facing monitoring camera installed at the factory. That hardware cannot be retrofitted. Software versions can improve over the air on eligible vehicles, so a 1.4 truck may gain features later, but a vehicle built without the hardware cannot gain the system at any price. What is the difference between BlueCruise 1.4 and 1.5? Both allow hands-free driving in Blue Zones. Version 1.4 uses Lane Change Assist, where you tap the turn signal and the system performs the lane change. Version 1.5 and higher adds Automatic Lane Change, which can move around slower traffic without input from you. Ford currently lists 1.5 on the 2026 Explorer and 2025 and 2026 Mustang Mach-E. Does BlueCruise require a subscription? Yes. BlueCruise operates on a subscription, and new vehicles typically include an initial trial period whose length varies. After the trial you choose whether to continue. Plan status is visible in your Ford Account and in the Ford app, and it is worth confirming what is included on a specific vehicle before you sign. Start Your Test Drive Today Reading about hands-free driving does not tell you much. Twenty minutes on SH 130 does. We can set up a drive that actually gets onto a Blue Zone highway instead of a loop around the lot, and we will show you how to check plan status and Blue Zone coverage on the vehicle you are considering. Call our sales team at 737-327-3018 or start with the Ford model lineup to see which vehicles are candidates. If a truck is what you are after, the F-150 research pages are a good starting point, and you can look at financing options in parallel. If an SUV is the target instead, the Explorer pages are the place to start. Last updated: 2026-08-17 Author: Covert Ford Hutto New Ford Inventory | Pre-Owned Inventory | Ford Service